Honoring both brands’ 15th anniversaries, H. Moser & Cie has partnered up with MB&F for a fumé-focused set of limited edition models that blend both technical and aesthetic elements from both of these well-loved independent manufactures. With a total run spanning just 135 units split into 15-piece editions, this collaboration is built around two watches. From H. Moser, we have the brand’s interpretation of the MB&F FlyingT called the H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. And from MB&F, we have a “Moserized” take on the LM101. With both available in an array of colorful fumé dials, this fun-loving collaboration is born of mutual respect and longstanding co-operation between H. Moser & Cie and MB&F.
While there is certainly enough here to have warranted two distinct posts, H. Moser and MB&F paired the two together on release, and I think that was a decision that speaks to the tone of the partnership. Starting with the H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, they’ve done a lovely job of combining the sleek and minimal aesthetic of the H. Moser Endeavour line with the architecture and drama of the FlyingT and its delightful inclined dial and open tourbillon display.
Sized up to 42mm (the FlyingT is 38.5), the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is 19.5mm thick thanks to that hugely domed sapphire crystal and the impressive mechanical elements it helps to display. Offered in five versions (funky blue, burgundy, cosmic green, off-white, and ice blue – each limited to 15 pieces), the fumé dials are front and center and make up a huge part of the overall personality for this crossover offering from H. Moser.
Time is shown on a floating sapphire dial that is inclined 40 degrees, with the goal of offering a view only to the wearer. The combination of the sapphire dial and the distinct separation of the time display from the aperture for the one-minute flying tourbillon ensures both balance and an unobstructed view of both features. The movement is called the HMC 810 and is an automatic manufacture movement from H. Moser that offers 72 hours of power reserve and employs a cylindrical hairspring. Looking at the photo above, that massive crystal looks to provide an incredible and colorful (funky blue) view, and that transparent dial looks especially cool and modern. Furthermore, as the result of an effort to blend some MB&F into a Moser, I think they’ve done a lovely job.
Turning our gaze to the MB&F x Moser LM101, while the format may be instantly more recognizable – having been based on an already-existing model – the execution is nonetheless impressive. Both in detail and effect, this “Moserized” LM101 looks simply amazing with a fumé dial, which manages to add to the overall effect without competing with the suspended balance for attention. Production of the MB&F x H. Moser LM101 is slated for 60 examples divided into 15 pieces in four colors including funky blue, cosmic green, red, and aqua blue (this last one being a special edition for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons).
In any of the shown colors (especially the cosmic green), I really love the way that the architecture of the LM101 mixes with the gradient of the fumé dial and the Moser style of limiting design to the bare essentials. Here, we see that where a standard LM101 would have a floating dial for the time and another for the power reserve, those displays have been rendered as hands directly on the dial, free of additional flourish and without anything to detract from the effect of the dial. I also really like how the suspended balance sits above the center of the sunburst pattern, allowing the color to radiate outwards from the sole animated element.
Holding steady at 40mm wide and 16mm thick (again, with a very domed crystal), this LM101 is most certainly something special and, of the two formats, speaks more to my personal taste. While finished with a more modern NAC-derived tone than a standard LM101, the MB&F x Moser LM101 uses the same hand-wound 2.5Hz movement common to the model. Just like with the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, the MB&F x Moser LM101 is available only in steel.
Pricing starts at $ 52,000 for the MB&F x H. Moser LM101 and $ 79,000 for the H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. While this is not the first time we’ve seen an LM101 in steel, let alone a very limited example, the pricing for both models is quite attractive, and the extremely limited production and inside nature of such a collaboration will undoubtedly speak directly to die-hard collectors. And, as a sort of cross-pollination hybrid event, I would assume that this opens the door for collectors of either brand to try something new that still aligns with their overall mode of collecting. All told, both models are nothing less than lovely and distinctive creations only possible due to an uncommon level of friendship and creativity between two of the key players in the independent space.
H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Brand: H. Moser x MB&F (collaboration)
Model: H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Diameter: 42mm – Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Thickness: 19.5mm – Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Case Material: Steel (all)
Dial Color: Fumé in several colors
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator
MB&F x H. Moser LM101
Brand: MB&F x H. Moser (collaboration)
Model: MB&F x H. Moser LM101
Diameter: 40mm – LM101
Thickness: 16mm – LM101
Case Material: Steel (all)
Dial Color: Fumé in several colors
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched calfskin
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Caliber: HMC 810
Functions: Hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Caliber: LM101 engine
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve indication, suspended balance wheel
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Pricing & Availability
Price: $ 79,000 for the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and $ 52,000 for the LM101
Limited Edition: 75 pieces in five colorways (15 each) for the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and 60 pieces in four colorways (15 each) for the LM101