It’s Wednesday, which means more vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop! This week, we have seven different watches in a variety of sizes and styles. That includes a pair of dress watches originally retailed by Tiffany & Co. in very different executions, a handsome twosome from the Omega Seamaster line, a colorful yachting chronograph from Breitling, and even an automatic Heuer Carrera to switch things up.
1987 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16233 Retailed by Tiffany & Co. In Two Tone
Rolex released the Datejust in 1945 and has continued to update and tweak the watch ever since. It remains a cornerstone of the Rolex lineup to this very day. Rolex has, as you might expect, produced many different dial variations over the decades, offering the watch in stainless steel, solid gold, and even in a two-tone combination of steel and gold such as today’s example. However, not all Datejusts are created equally, and some have more to unpack than others. Here, you’ll find a slender retailer signature underneath the dial’s central pinion. It’s from the one-and-only Tiffany & Co., who used to be a retailer for Rolex and would occasionally sell the brand’s watches with the jeweler’s iconic label stamped on the dial. Even if you disregard the Tiffany & Co. connection, this Datejust is in excellent condition, with a beautiful near-pink patina that has developed on the gold elements of the center bracelet links, the crown, and the bezel. This watch is in near pristine condition, indicating it was worn very little since its birth 33 years ago.
1971 Breitling Co-Pilot Ref. 7650 ‘Yachting’
The Navitimer is typically the first watch to come to mind when considering Breitling’s long history, but here, we have a variation of the Co-Pilot, another truly great Breitling chronograph. This Co-Pilot stands out among other vintage examples with a unique bezel and sub-dial design intended to help prepare yacht skippers for the start of a regatta. Breitling is, of course, known for its purpose-built watches, which is why the presence of a yachting chronograph in the classic Breitling tool-watch catalog makes sense. The ref. 7650 seen here is big and bold, granting excellent legibility on the open seas. This example is in great condition with minor wear and intact, vibrant colors. These Co-Pilot yachting chronographs don’t come around too often, especially in condition like this.
1966 Tudor Prince Oysterdate Ranger Ref. 7966/0 With ‘Roulette’ Date
The Ranger is a great, under-the-radar watch that is less popular – but no less cool – than the Submariner, Tudor’s better-known sport watch. Tudor produced the Ranger in a number of variations from the 1960s to the late 1980s, before reviving it in 2014. The Ranger is, for all intents and purposes, Tudor’s version of the Rolex Explorer. The two watches share similar design elements, but Tudor’s variant adds some interesting details to make it unique. These include a sleek 34mm Oyster case with a smooth bezel and luminous Arabic numerals at six, nine, and 12 o’clock. The shovel hour hand is filled with lume, as is the seconds hand, which features a small rectangular plot near its tip. The 34mm case profile is surprisingly flat, ensuring that it will wear quite comfortably on most wrists. Tudor offered the Ranger with and without the date window and with either a manual or an automatic movement during its original production years. The Ranger was first produced with the famous Tudor Rose logo before eventually transitioning to the Tudor Shield emblem. The example we have is one of the earlier self-winding Ranger models with a date complication; it has the seldom-seen “roulette”-style date wheel, in which even dates are colored in red and odd ones in black.
The Full Set
In addition to the above three beauties, we have a 1970 Heuer Carrera Automatic Ref. 1153 with blue dial, a classic Omega Seamaster 120 from 1966, a sophisticated Tiffany & Co. by Movado dress watch in 14k yellow gold, and a 1968 Omega Seamaster chronograph with the legendary caliber 321 inside. Head on over to the HODINKEE Shop to check out all seven new vintage watches!