In The Shop – Vintage Watches: A 1979 Tudor Submariner, A 1960s Zenith Chronograph, And A 1970s Heuer Autavia GMT

In The Shop – Vintage Watches: A 1979 Tudor Submariner, A 1960s Zenith Chronograph, And A 1970s Heuer Autavia GMT

It’s Wednesday, which means a fresh batch of vintage watches has arrived in the HODINKEE Shop! As we highlighted in yesterday’s Shop Spotlight, fall is right around the corner, and we’re preparing the only way we know how – with a brand-new selection of vintage watches that are perfect for welcoming the seasonal shift. We specifically selected the leather straps on today’s vintage watches with fall weather in mind. This week, we have an eclectic collection of seven watches with bold colors and compelling features that all come in a number of classic designs.

1970s Heuer Autavia GMT Ref. 1163 ‘Mark 3’

When the term “Pepsi” bezel is mentioned, usually one watch comes to mind for watch collectors. But today, we’re featuring a different kind of Pepsi GMT with some serious style that will help it stand out in any watch collection. This is a 1970s Heuer Autavia GMT that matches its 24-hour, blue-and-red bezel with bold red accents on the sub-dials and hands. These details not only add an attractive pop of color, but they are also beneficial for improving legibility. Additionally, the three red stripes in the minute register allow you to break the subsidiary dial into five-minute segments, so you can quickly divide elapsed timing intervals when the chronograph is in use. Powered by the self-winding Heuer caliber 14 – a GMT-equipped evolution of the famous caliber 11 – this vintage chronograph GMT combines functionality and value in a handsome package.

1960s Zenith Chronograph Ref. A277

Zenith debuted the ref. A277 chronographs in the mid-1960s a few years before the famous El Primero automatic chronograph would make its debut, and the brand ended up producing two different variants in its total production run. This example has a 40mm diameter, which is a fairly standard size today but would have been considered large in the 1960s. Other design aspects, like the bezel with its mix of circular markers, numbers, and hash-marks, and the interesting ladder-style bracelet made by Gay Frères, were also uncommon at the time, which gives this Zenith chronograph a unique and interesting appearance that you won’t find elsewhere. In fact, these specific ladder-style bracelets are quite collectible on their own. The watch we have here today is the second version of the ref. A277, which features an updated movement, a new logo on the crown, and gold-colored subsidiary seconds hands. The ref. A277 is a great chronograph that you won’t come across too often; it mixes classic and funky styles in a highly wearable steel case.   

1979 Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner Ref. 94110

Tudor introduced the Submariner dive watch at nearly the same time Rolex – its corporate sibling – did. Rolex released the inaugural Submariner in 1953, and Tudor released its first a year later, in 1954. Ever since, Rolex and Tudor have continued to evolve their dive-watch offerings in similar, and complementary, ways. Some of the biggest aesthetic differences you’ll find between vintage Tudor and Rolex examples are the “Snowflake”-style hands and dials that the former used on its Submariners between 1969 and the mid-1980s. The large square lume plots on the dial and the blocky, angular hands are instantly recognizable as a Tudor trait. Today’s Submariner example dates to the final years of Tudor using the Snowflake aesthetic on its dive watches, before it was revived in 2012 in the contemporary Black Bay series.

The Full Set

In addition to the three above highlights, we have a beautiful Universal Genève in pink gold from 1956, a classic 1968 Rolex Date with its original box and chronometer papers, a funky, yellow Jenny Caribbean 1000 from the early 1970s, and a 1959 stainless-steel Longines dress watch with great patina. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop to check out all the new watches! 

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